Updated September 2025 — by Gianni Tritella. Some owners of Jeep Avenger MHEV (Hybrid 136 e-DCS6, 48V) report the engine suddenly stalling, with the message " Press brake and START " appearing on the display. The car can continue for a short time in electric mode, then slows to a stop. In many cases, a restart or 12V reset allows the vehicle to restart, but does not resolve the cause . Here you will find what to do immediately , step-by-step diagnosis for the workshop, and preventative measures .
⚠️ Typical symptoms
- Sudden shutdown of the combustion engine at constant speed (even on the motorway/city).
- Message on instrument panel: “Press brake and START” ; no other clear warning lights in user memory.
- The vehicle runs for a short time in electric mode (48V) with limited power, then requests a stop.
- After switching off/on again (or resetting the 12V) the car can restart and travel for hundreds of km without immediately repeating the fault.
🔎 Why it happens (explained simply)
The Avenger MHEV uses a 48V system with an electric motor integrated into the gearbox and a 12V network that powers control units and services. If the 12V network experiences a voltage drop (battery, ground, DC-DC), if a control unit restarts for protection , or if there is an "inconsistent" sensor reading (e.g., brake pedal), the ICE is safely shut down and the dashboard prompts a restart with the brake pressed. The electrical system only allows "pulling over."
Most frequent triggers detected in the workshop:
- 12V weak/unstable (EFB/AGM battery not at 100%, oxidized terminals or grounds).
- DC-DC 48V→12V which cannot support the load under certain conditions (peaks/climate/lights/fans).
- IBS (battery sensor) not aligned after replacements/reboots, with “confused” power management.
- Dual-channel brake pedal sensor : plausibility temporarily out of range → restart required.
- Software (ECM/HCU/BCM/Cluster/e-DCS6): logic to be updated according to TSB/network updates.
- More rarely: Intermittent CKP/CMP (rpm/camshaft sensors) or CAN with message losses.
🛑 What to do immediately to be safe (for the driver)
- Keep calm and pull over safely (emergency lane), turn on your hazard lights.
- Put the gear lever in P (or N + brake), turn off the ignition, wait 60–90 s , then turn it back on by pressing brake and START.
- If it starts up again normally, avoid further stress and drive home/workshop.
- Don't disconnect the battery in traffic. A "12V reset" may restart the vehicle, but it will erase the fault data needed for diagnosis.
- Write down on a sheet of paper/app: date/time , speed, climate on, 48V SOC (if visible), 12V battery status (if the car shows it).
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1) DTC reading + Freeze-Frame (do not erase immediately)
- ECM (engine), HCU/e-DCS6 (hybrid/gearbox module), DC-DC , BMS 48V , BCM , ABS/ESC , Cluster .
- Note: Engine RPM, Speed, KL30/KL15 Voltage, 12V min recorded, SOC 48V, Brake Pedal Status (A/B Channels), “Engine Stop” Request Status.
2) 12V power supply and grounds
- EFB/AGM battery test with tool (SOH/SOC, internal resistance). Hot target: >12.5 V at rest; running lights + A/C: 13.5–14.7 V stable.
- Check terminals , cable lugs, chassis/engine ground points ; voltage drops < 0.2 V at start-up.
- IBS Reset/Alignment after any interventions.
3) DC-DC and 48V network
- Monitor with a road test: DC-DC current, 12V voltage, 48V SOC, module temperature. Look for drops when using the climate control/fans/degiver.
- Check DC-DC connectors and ground; check for “undervoltage” DTCs in the registers.
4) “Critical” sensors and signals
- Brake pedal (dual channel): consistency and latency (no flapping/noise). If in doubt, replace and repeat adjustments.
- CKP/CMP : Hot signal quality (oscilloscope if available), wiring near the gearbox.
- Check power relays /fuses and panel (oxides/loose terminals).
5) Software and campaigns
- Check campaigns/TSBs on the official portal: ECM, HCU/e-DCS6, BCM, Cluster , DC-DC. Perform updates if available.
- Post-update: clear DTC, basic settings required (throttle/idle, IBS, any HCU procedures), road test with logger.
🧩 Quick decision tree (technical)
- 12V undervoltage recorded? → Low battery SOH or DC-DC drop → Restore 12V (new battery if necessary), clean grounds, check DC-DC. Re-test.
- No undervoltage but brake pedal inconsistency? → Replace sensor, check wiring, reset adjustments. Retest.
- DTC on HCU/e-DCS6 or Cluster related to “Engine Stop request / plausibility” → Update software, redo basic settings, extended test.
- CKP/CMP intermittents → check with an oscilloscope; replace sensor/wiring if necessary. Retest while hot.
- No reproducible defects → Update everything, document nominal values, deliver with signed report and follow-up in 1–2 weeks.
🛡 Prevention and best practices
- 12V battery in top condition : short trips/hot weather stress it. Maintain a trickle charge in the garage if you make frequent city trips.
- Avoid electrical retrofits that tax the 12V without adequate power.
- After battery work: align IBS and make the required basic settings.
- In the workshop: one change at a time, value reporting and road tests with logger, not just “open/close DTCs”.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Does disconnecting the battery “cure” the problem?
No. It's just a reset that can allow you to restart. Without a diagnosis, the problem may reoccur. It's best not to do it on the road: you'll lose data useful to the repair shop.
Can I drive after the first episode?
If the car restarts and doesn't repeat, you can safely return home. Then, book a diagnostic (warranty) and ask for a 12V/48V check and updates.
Is this a “standard” defect of the Avenger?
We're talking about a pattern seen in multiple cases, typical of MHEV platforms with advanced Start/Stop logic. It's usually resolved by resetting the power supply , correcting the sensors , and updating the software .
How much does it cost if it's not under warranty?
Diagnostics with logger: €60–120. 12V battery (EFB/AGM) €150–250. Brake sensor €40–120 + labor. Software updates: varies depending on the official network.

2 comments
Alessio
Pure io. Praticamente nuova me l’ha fatto dopo un mese la prima volta, per ora sono 3 volte. Assistenza zero, sono arrivato a litigare con l’officina autorizzata, alzano le spalle !!! Ancora senza diagnosi e senza soluzione. Stiamo parlando di un problema grave, che nel caso sfortunato potrebbe anche causare incidenti gravi e morti, ma scherziamo ? Ma la cosa secondo me più scandalosa è che un articolo come questo debba apparire SU UN SITO DI AUTORICAMBI E NON SUL SITO UFFICIALE DELLA JEEP !! Ma vi rendete conto ? Come minimo la casa madre, visto che il ptoblema ormai sembrerebbe noto, dovrebbe inviare una lettera di scuse a a tutti gli utenti con istruzioni sul da farsi. Invece ste cose le scopri solo sui forum, sui siti e su youtube !!! E poi ti senti dire dalle officine autorizzate “ah ma lei non deve andare a guardare su internet” !!!!! Ma la verità è che voi fate gli gnorri e certe cose le scopri solo su intetnet !!! Vergogna ! E stiamo parlando della Jeep, non della BYD o della DR…nom so se mi spiego…
Bad Hellie
Avete un bel dire mantenete la calma e mettete le 4 frecce !!! Se ti capita dietro una curva o in autostrada in galleria col traffico ?? Io, Jeep Avenger ibrida praticamente nuova comprata dicembre 2024. Ad Agosto mi si spegne in autostrada, grazie a dio in un rettilineo e ho potuto accostare. Officine chiuse per ferie, al rientro dalle vacanze ho ottenuto un appuntamento solo a NOVEMBRE dall’officina autorizzata di GE, la quale dopo tutti i test del caso non ha rilevato niente. Oggi, 29 gennaio 2026, ad uno stop in centro mi ha fatto la stessa cosa !!! Prima di sono spente le ventole, poi il motore, col solito messaggio “premi freno e start”. E non ripartiva più !!!! E’ ripartita forse al decimo tentativo. E io adesso dovrei portarla a GE dalla stessa officina autorizzata guidando in autostrada con la paura che mi si spenga ?? Ma stiamo scherzando ? BELLA CAGATA DI MACCHINA. ASSISTENZA CLIENTI ZERO. ALMENO AVERE UN NUMERO VERDE DI ASSISTENZA. NIENTE. 30 MILA EURO, NUOVA.