Is Fiamm Not What It Used to Be? Truths, Myths, and Which Car Battery Should You Buy?

✅ INTRODUCTION: WHERE "FIAMM IS NO LONGER AS IT USED TO BE" COMES FROM

In a recent thread on an automotive forum, a user reports:

• FIAMM battery fitted in 2016 , lasted 8 years without problems;
• a spare parts dealer, however, tells him: «FIAMM is no longer like it used to be, they make a fuss about the warranty»;
• Other users chime in with opposite experiences:
  • who had FIAMM lasting 6 months ;
  • who had FIAMM lasting 12 years ;
  • Still others say that "they are more or less all the same" , that the difference is made by use and luck.

This is the perfect snapshot of how “myths” are born in the automotive world:

• does anyone have a single bad experience ;
• word of mouth turns it into absolute truth ;
• the brand carries the label “it's not like it used to be”.

In the workshop, however, the reality is more nuanced:

• you can find FIAMM batteries that easily last 7-8 years ;
• others that die before 3 years, as also happens with Bosch, Varta, Exide, Ursus, etc.;
• Often the conditions of use explain the shelf life much better than the name printed on the label.

In this article, we are neither advertising for FIAMM nor putting FIAMM on trial: we are analyzing the facts and seeing what you should do when you need to buy a new battery today .

🔋 REAL BATTERY LIFE TODAY: IT'S NOT JUST A QUESTION OF BRAND

Let's start from a fixed point: today's batteries do not live in the same world as those of 20 years ago .

Today we have:

• cars full of electronics and control units;
• start&stop, infotainment systems, sensors, LED lights, device charging, seat heating;
• short trips, lots of traffic, lots of cold starts.

All of this means one thing: the battery works much harder .

Under normal conditions, it is realistic to expect today:

• 4–6 years of battery life for a car without start&stop, used in “normal” way;
• 3–5 years on cars with start&stop in the city, especially if you make many short trips.

Cases from 8–12 years old do exist, but:

• are a combination of:
  • good quality battery,
  • well-maintained car,
  • favorable use (few starts, medium-long distances, efficient alternator);
• and yes, a little bit of luck too.

On the other hand, we see famous batteries fail after 2 years because:

• car used only for journeys of 3–5 km;
• very hot climate → accelerated self-discharge;
• many accessories turned on with the engine off (radio, 12V vacuum cleaner, lights, etc.);
• battery undersized compared to the actual needs of the car.

This is why I always say: the brand matters, but the use matters more .

⚖️ FIAMM TODAY: WHAT HAS REALLY CHANGED (AND WHAT HASN'T)

The phrase “FIAMM is no longer what it used to be” is convenient, but too generic.

From a technical and commercial point of view there are some aspects to consider:

🔹 1. Different product lines (OEM, aftermarket, economy)

When you say “FIAMM”, you can talk about:

• OEM (first equipment) batteries fitted by car manufacturers;
• mid-high range aftermarket batteries;
• cheaper lines, designed to fit into certain price ranges.

It is evident that:

• a FIAMM OEM battery fitted to a new car will have very strict standards and controls;
• an entry-level battery sold at the lowest possible price cannot have the same margins for oversizing.

This does not mean that the quality “is no longer there”: it means that we have to compare apples with apples , not premium FIAMMs with €39 supermarket batteries.

🔹 2. Regulations, weights and "lighter batteries"

Another common feeling is: “Today’s batteries are lighter → therefore they are worse”.

It is partly true that:

• for cost and optimization reasons, many manufacturers have reduced excess lead;
• we work closer to the “necessary” than to the “super abundant”.

But this applies to all brands , not just FIAMM. It's the market that has changed, not just one brand.

🔹 3. Guarantee: fears and reality

In Italy, for the end consumer, the legal guarantee on the product is 24 months .

In the battery world, however, the disputes are complex:

• many manufacturers cover manufacturing defects , not wear and tear from misuse;
• if the battery is:
  • often used discharged,
  • subjected to overload,
  • stops for months without maintenance,
  It is easy for the warranty to be rejected by any brand, not just FIAMM.

The result? A myth is born: "They make a fuss about the warranty, I won't change them anymore."

My position is simple:

• FIAMM continues to make decent batteries that are anything but “soap bubbles” ;
• we see FIAMMs easily reaching 7-8 years ;
• There are failures, as with everyone, but demonizing the brand as a whole is not correct.

🏁 BOSCH, VARTA, EXIDE, URSUS & CO.: ONE IS AS WELL AS THE OTHER?

In the thread you reported, various brands appear:

• Bosch (also with blue/black lid);
• Varta Silver ;
• Bear ;
• Panasonic, Exide, Yuasa ;
• “supermarket” batteries with no known brand.

Some users have the following idea: “they're all made in two or three factories, they're all the same, only the label changes” .

The truth is somewhere in between:

• many brands share similar production platforms and technologies;
• however:
  • there are different product ranges even within the same brand;
  • there are different quality controls and technical specifications;
  • Premium lines (e.g. high-end AGM/EFB, “silver/dynamic” ranges, etc.) have better materials and plates.

What really matters, more than the name on the front panel, is:

• choose the correct type for your car (traditional lead-acid, EFB, AGM);
• comply with the required or recommended capacity (Ah) and starting current (A EN) ;
• Don't skimp on quality on cars with start-stop or lots of electronics.

In practice:

• between a big brand (FIAMM, Bosch, Varta, Exide, Yuasa…) we are talking about differences, not abysses ;
• You can definitely see the difference between a good, correctly sized battery and a super cheap “no-brand” one.

🧩 HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BATTERY FOR YOUR CAR

When a customer asks me: «FIAMM, Bosch, Varta, Ursus… what should I use?», I always bring the conversation back to how to choose .

Here is the practical ladder:

1. Check if you have START&STOP

• No start&stop → traditional lead-acid battery is fine.
• Start&stop with basic system → at least one EFB is required.
• Advanced start&stop, medium-high category car → an AGM is often necessary.

Installing a “weaker” battery than necessary means:

• shorter life;
• charging problems;
• risk of electronic malfunctions.

2. Respect (or slightly improve) skills and cue

From the original booklet/label take:

• Ah (ampere-hour) : capacity;
• A EN or CCA : cold start.

General rules:

• never go below the initial values;
• you can increase it slightly (e.g. from 60 to 63–70Ah, if there is space), gaining margin and starting power.

3. Get professional help when coding is needed

On some modern cars:

• replacing the battery requires coding in the control unit (especially on high-end cars);
• in these cases, going “do it yourself” or to the supermarket is often not a great idea.

Better:

• have your battery changed by an equipped workshop;
• have receipt/invoice and correct installation (also useful for the warranty).

4. Brand: Choose from the main brands, then evaluate price and service

Once all this is done, I would reason about the brand like this:

• FIAMM, Bosch, Varta, Exide, Yuasa, Panasonic → reference range;
• Ursus and “second line” brands → often valid products with a good quality/price ratio;
• “no name” batteries at rock-bottom prices → I personally don't recommend them.

Then the rest comes into play:

• who mounts it for you;
• times;
• assistance in case of problems;
• possibility of testing the car's charging and absorption.

🚗 CAR USE: THE REAL BATTERY KILLER

One detail in the forum thread is striking: someone says that with short trips, the air conditioning always on and the car often stationary , the batteries last 3 years or less.

This is exactly what we see every day.

Typical situations that shorten the life of even the best battery:

• daily journeys of 5–10 km , perhaps in the city;
• many electrical accessories: rear window heater, air conditioning, stereo, phone charging;
• car left standing for weeks in the summer sun;
• many “short trips” lasting 10–20 seconds with the engine running (parking, moving around the yard, etc.).

In these cases, regardless of the brand, the battery:

• it never charges fully;
• it often remains in a semi-discharged state → sulfation, loss of capacity;
• she arrives at the first winter “already tired”.

To extend the life of the battery (FIAMM or any other):

• every now and then take a longer ride (30–40 minutes) ;
• if you know that the car will be sitting for weeks:
  • unplug the terminal (where possible and recommended), or
  • use a battery maintainer ;
• Avoid using your car as a “blender” for 10-second trips 10 times a day.

💡 WHAT TO DO IN PRACTICE WHEN YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE BATTERY

Let's summarize in "checklist" style:

✅ 1. Check the required battery type (standard/EFB/AGM)

If you have any doubts, check:

• use and maintenance manual;
• original battery label;
• Ask a competent spare parts dealer, indicating the model, year and whether you have start & stop.

✅ 2. Choose the right skills and inspiration

• never go lower than the original;
• If you travel a lot in the city and have a lot of accessories, consider a small increase (where possible).

✅ 3. Brand: FIAMM yes, but it's not the only one

My honest position:

• FIAMM is not to be “avoided outright” ;
• as for Bosch, Varta, Exide, Ursus:
  • there are more robust lines and cheaper lines,
  • there are batches that are more successful and others that are less successful;
• more important than the religious war on the brand is:
  • buy the right product for your car,
  • assemble it well,
  • use it sensibly.

✅ 4. Evaluate the service, not just the €10 difference

There are those who save €30–40 by buying online, then:

• he is left stranded in a parking lot;
• he loses a morning of work;
• he still has to go to the workshop to get help.

Sometimes paying a little extra for:

• correct diagnosis,
• assembly done well,
• battery disposed of correctly,
• assistance if there are problems,

It's simply the smartest choice.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions About Fiamm and Car Batteries

📌 CONCLUSIONS: FIAMM YES OR FIAMM NO?

To sum it up bluntly:

• no , I don't share the idea that "FIAMM no longer has the quality it once had" taken as an absolute truth;
• yes , there have been and always will be cases of FIAMM batteries (like Bosch, Varta, Exide, Ursus etc.) dying earlier than expected;
• yes , the market has changed: more “stretched” batteries, heavier cars from an electrical point of view, less favorable use.

What really matters in order not to be left stranded is not winning the religious war on the brand, but:

• fit the right type of battery for your car (standard/EFB/AGM);
• size it well in Ah and I'm off;
• make sure your car's charging system is in working order;
• use the car in such a way that the battery has some chance of lasting a long time.

If you want personalized advice, including the model, year, and engine of your car, as well as your usage pattern (city/highway, annual mileage, etc.), we can evaluate together which battery actually makes sense to fit , regardless of what you hear on forums.